![]() This makes it easy to keep track of the power and dataĪdemco deserves extra credit for designating these terminals by color, The colors red, black, green, and yellow (or white) for the individual The typical wiring used for any devices requiring data, such as keypads, Red = +Power Black = -Power Green = Data terminal 6 Yellow = Data terminal 7 Color code for typical 4-conductor connection: Include at least one Ademco 6160 keypad to makeĪdvanced programming easier. 6 & 7 – DataĬonnect data leads from keypads, zone expanders, To the appropriate pigtails using wire nuts. Short pigtail of 18-gauge wire to each terminal, preferably using redįor positive and black for negative. If you have many devices to connect, you’ll soon have trouble fitting If this isn't possible, make sure at least one keypad is connected to the Vista 20P's own power terminals. ![]() Preferably, this extra power supply would have its own battery backup, so it will continue to work during a power outage. If you need more than this, you can add a supplemental power supply. ![]() The maximum current available for all keypads and detection devices is 600mA. Terminal 5 is positive, terminal 4 is negative. The 3G4000 GSM unit is connected to zone 8 and the tip/ring on the main ADT panel.12-volt power to operate keypads, zone expanders, motion detectors, and If ADT can send a signal, what should I do right away to prevent this? Once I call ADT to cancel monitoring, can ADT send a signal to brick my system? I've read that they could on certain systems but wasn't sure about the Safewatch 3000. I've read through alot of forum discussions but I still have questions I hope someone can answer. I would like to cancel the ADT monitoring service and add the EnvisaLink EVL4 to do self monitoring. This one has me stumped but I’m hoping you know what they’ve done.Ĭurrently have the Safewatch 3000 system (Vista 20P) from ADT with GSM (using device 3G4000) monitoring from ADT. Then the green/white from the phone line is connected to terminal 9. So the installer spliced into the phone line for some reason and again has the green phone line connected to the green external bell. Then there’s a green/white wire from that same phone line that’s connected to terminal 9 which is the common zone 1 and zone 2 terminal. The green wire on the external bell is connected to a green wire that’s pulled out of the phone line that’s in the box. So I assume there’s some sort of tamper switch on the external bell. The yellow is tied to terminal 8 (zone 1) and is labeled by the installer as Bell tamper. The red and block are on terminal 3 and 4 as they should be. It appears the outside bell wire has R B Y and G. I think I’m down to my last wire that seems strange. Will figure that out tomorrow as it’s not a big deal. I haven’t had a chance to test the panic button for NO or NC. Please divide those devices into two zones when you upgrade! ![]() So someone put a panic device and a heat sensor on the same zone, which is technically possible but not recommended, and not compliant with Fire Code. That's where you'll probably find the EOLR, which you will need to change for the V-20P Panel.Įdit: I posted before I saw your latest post. All that's assuming that I understand how you described the wires are connected.Īs to the fire device (probably a heat sensor?) that you dont' know about, there is typically at least one heat sensor in the attic, and it's typically the farthest device in THE fire loop. I STRONGLY recommend that when you upgrade to the V-20P, that you NOT connect those wires to the new board in the same way. There's this thing called Fire Code, and they're serious about it. Seriously, I know of at least one professional tech who did prison time for wiring a fire zone wrong and the Fire Marshall found it after a fire. It should a lot like someone saved himself some wiring trouble and ran two loops and put the EOLR at device at the end of one loop, and left the other loop unsupervised-which is a serious no-no for installing fire devices. The fire devices should be daisy-chained on a single loop connected to the fire zone, and the 1K(1000 Ohm) EOLR (End-of-Line Resistor) should be installed on the last device at the end of the loop. ![]() What I think you're describing means that you have at least two fire devices, maybe two heat sensors, wired to the panel, and they're not wired properly. Heat sensors are connected on a Fire Zone (Type 2 or 9, but usually 9), which is wired differently than a burglary zone. I gather that since you mention no resistor on Z6, that you are seeing resistors connected on other zones? A picture might be helpful here. Do you mean two wire pairs, both connected to Terminals 15 & 16? So that T15 has 3 wires connected to it, since it's the ground Terminal for both Zones 5 &6? ![]()
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